PLACES VISITED BY CHINESE PILGRIMS WHILE TRAVELLING IN INDIA
(B)Xuanzang/Hiuen Tsang (630-645 AD): -Chinese pilgrim Xuanzang visited India during the reign of Harsha and described Kannauj as a large, prosperous city with many Buddhist monasteries. It was also Harshavardhana's capital. Tansen Sen wrote in Education about Asia: In his writing, “Xuanzang proceeds to give a detailed account of the kingdoms and towns he visited in India, including, in fascicle five, the city of Kanauj, the capital of King Harshavardhana's empire. Xuanzang reached the city sometime in 637 or 638 when Harshavardhana was at the height of this rule, his empire extending from northwestern Bengal in the east to the river Beas in Punjab in the west. Harshavardhana had, for the first time since the collapse of the Gupta empire in the fifth century, brought peace and prosperity to northern India; and both Buddhism and Hinduism are said to have flourished under his reign. “As with other sections of his work, Xuanzang begins the fascicle with a general description of Kanauj and a narration of the legend associated with its founding. The reigning king, he points out, was Harshavardhana, and notes his virtues, valor, and sympathy for the Buddhist doctrine. Xuanzang then reports his audience with the Indian king, who, we are told, was aware of the reign of a “compassionate” ruler in China. Xuanzang explained to Harshavardhana that the ruler he had heard about was none other than the reigning Tang emperor Taizong. “He has," Xuanzang told the Indian king, “Reduced taxes and mitigated punishments. The country has surplus revenue and nobody attempts to violate the laws. As to his moral influence and his profound edification of the people, it is exhausting to narrate in any detail." Harshavardhana responded: “Excellent! The people of your land must have performed good deeds to have such a saintly lord.".
(02) MATHURA: - Mathura is a city in the Indian state of Uttar Pradesh. It is located approximately 55 kilometers (34 mi) north of Agra, 145 kilometers (90 mi) southeast of Delhi; about 11 kilometers (6.8 mi) from the town of Vrindavan, and 22 kilometers (14 mi) from Govardhan. It is the administrative center of the Mathura district of Uttar Pradesh.
(A) Fa Hien/ Faxian (399-412 AD): - Fa Hien mentions the city as a center of Buddhism in about 400 AD. Fa Hien Recorded Mathura as a kingdom with the capital of the same name, situated on the Jamuna. According to him, everybody from highest to lowest rank had faith in Buddhism and it was so from the time of the Buddha. Throughout the whole country, the people do not kill any living creature, drink intoxicating liquor, or eat onions or garlic. The only exception is that of the Chandalas. That is the name for those who are (held to be) wicked men, and live apart from others. When they enter the gate of a city or a marketplace, they strike a piece of wood to make themselves known, so that men know and avoid them, and do not come into contact with them. In that country they do not keep pigs and fowls, and do not sell live cattle; in the markets, there are no butchers' shops and no dealers in intoxicating drink. In buying and selling commodities they use cowries-. Only the Chandalas are fishermen and hunters and sell flesh meat. Fa-Hien further informs that the religious establishments had copper plate grants testifying the evidence of their historicity. There were twenty monasteries on both sides of the river and 3000 monks resided in them. Fa-Hien speaks of the happy and cordial conditions of the place. The rulers and the court officials showed much regard to Buddhism and they derived pleasure in serving the monks and feeding them. `At the end of the meal they spread carpets on the ground, and sat down facing the president not venturing to sit on couches in the presence of priests', an arrangement handed down from the days of the Buddha.
(B)Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (630-645 AD): -Xuanzang, who visited the city in 634AD, mentions it as Motulo, recording that it contained twenty Buddhist monasteries and five Hindu temples. Later, he went east to Thanesar, Jalandhar in eastern Punjab, before climbing up to visit predominantly Theravada monasteries in the Kulu valley and turning southward again to Bairat and then Mathura, on the Yamuna River.
(03) VAISHALI: - Vaishali was among the largest and most flourishing cities during the Buddhist era of ancient India. It was located on the banks of Gandak River and was on the trade route connected in the north with Shravasti and Kapilavastu and in the south with Rajgriha. Like many other ancient cities of the Buddhist era, it too was lost in oblivion. Its exact location and identification owe much to the travel records of Faxian and Xuanzang.
(A) Fa Hien/Faxian (399-412 AD): -Vaishali or Vesali was a city in present-day Bihar, India, and is now an archaeological site. It is a part of the Tirhut Division. Its several important monasteries and shrines were described by the Chinese pilgrim in the 5th century According to Fa Hien there was a large forest to its north, having in it a double-galleried Vihara, where the Buddha dwelt and the tope over half the body of Ananda. He also saw the Buddha stupa.
(B)Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (630-645 AD): -After traveling through Chen-chu (Ghazipur), Xuanzang arrived at Vaishali from Sarnath. The capital city Vaishali, 60-70 Li in the circuit, was in ruins with very few inhabitants as described by Xuanzang (Life- Book-III, P-100). Within the city, there was a royal precinct 4 to 5 Li in the circuit. Based on the description by Xuanzang, the remains of Raja Vishal Ka Garh have been identified as the Royal Precinct. Xuanzang notes flourishing agricultural fields and fruit gardens but only a few remains of its thousands of old buildings and hundreds of monasteries, and a greatly reduced population. Of all the sectarian disciples, digambaras (Jaina) were most.
(04) PATALIPUTRA: - Pataliputra is an ancient Indian city, also known as Puṣpapura, Pataliputta or Paṭaligrama. It was initially called Kusuma Pura and is known as Patna in the state of Bihar today. Located at the intersection of the Ganges, Gandak, and Song rivers, it was of strategic importance.
(A) Fa Hien/ Faxian (399-412 AD): - At Pataliputra, he saw and was impressed by Asoka’s palace so, surely, Asoka’s palace was in existence even in the Gupta Era. He also describes 1 stupa and 2 monasteries nearby, also ascribed to Asoka. He mentioned about 600-700 monks living there and learning their lectures from teachers from all quarters. He mentions that the towns of Magadha were the largest in the area of Gangetic Plains and he calls it central India. He mentions that there were a lot of charitable institutions, rest houses, and there was an excellent Free Hospital in the Capital which was endowed by benevolent citizens. The poor and helpless patients suffering from all kinds of illnesses were taken care of and doctors attended them and they were given food and medicine as per their wants. Fa Hien further explains that the population of the western part lived happily and did not worry. He mentions that they don’t have to register their household and not to have attended any magistrate. People did not lock their houses. The passports and those who were willing to say may stay and those willing to go may go did not bind them. Fa Hien further mentions that no one kills the living things, drinks wine, or eats Onion or garlic. They don’t keep pigs and fowls, there is no dealing of cattle, and there are no butchers. Only Chandal's did all these.
(B) Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - When Hiuen Tsang visited India in the 7th century AD, he found an old city lying to the south of the Ganges above 70 li in circuit, the foundations of which were still visible, although the city for a long time had been a wilderness. This city was assumed by Hiuen Tsang to be Pataliputra. He also gave proof of how the city had been founded. He also was in awe of Ashoka's palace, which was still visible after all those years.
(05) NALANDA: - Nalanda Located near Patna and Gaya in Bihar, Nalanda rise to be the most famous seat of education and learning in India after the destruction of Taxila by the Hunas in the 5th century CE. The name Nalanda was perhaps derived from the word, Nala meaning "lotus stalks". Situated near the ancient cities of Pataliputra (now Patna) and Bodhgaya (now Gaya).
(A) Xunzang/ Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - Hiuen Tsang was accompanied by local monks to Nalanda, the greatest Indian university of the Indian state of Bihar, where he spent at least the next two years, He visited Champa Monastery, Bhagalpur. He was in the company of several thousand scholar-monks, whom he praised. According to a legend, Hiuen Tsiang's visit to Nalanda Maha vihara was towards the fulfillment of his life-long wishes. He ever wanted to study in India and learn Buddhism. He appreciated Indian hospitality and ambiance for study and profound learning. Nalanda, when Xuan Zang visited it, was called Nala and was a center of higher learning in various subjects. The University attracted scholars from different parts of the country as well as the world. Hiuen Tsang himself became a student of Nalanda to study yoga shastra. He has mentioned that the Chancellor of Nalanda, Shilabhadra, was the highest living authority in yoga. The courses of study offered by Nalanda University covered a wide range, almost the entire circle of knowledge then available. Students at Nalanda studied the Vedas and were also trained in fine arts, medicine, mathematics, astronomy, politics, and the art of warfare. He learned Buddhism and Yoga from Shilabhadra and Buddha Bhadra. Both the teachers who taught him were of great intelligence and Hiuen Tsang learned a lot of things from them. The study of medicine, crafts, linguistics, and crafts were done at the famous university. Hiuen Tsang studied logic, grammar, Sanskrit, and the Yogacara school of Buddhism during his time at Nalanda.
(B) I-Tsing (671–695 AD): - A Chinese traveler, visited India in connection with Buddhism. The Chinese scholars I-Qing and Xuan Zang visited Nalanda in the 7th century CE. They have given vivid accounts of Nalanda. I-Tsing resided at the great Nalanda monastery for ten years (676-685), devoting himself to the study of the Vinya They have noted that as many as one hundred discourses happened daily, in a variety of disciplines through the methods of debate and discussions.
(06) TAMRALIPTA (now Taluk):-Tamralipta (Tamalitta in Pali) was an ancient country in the northeastern part of India and was also an important port. Many Chinese monks visited this place which was known as Danmolidi in Chinese.
(A) Fa Hien/ Faxian (399-412 AD): - Faxian during the Jinn dynasty visited the country in 408 AD, and noted: “... Duomolidi is a seaport. It has 24 Buddhist temples, full of Buddhists, and Buddhism is flourishing”. Faxian lived there for two years. He copied scriptures and made portraits. Later, he boarded a merchant ship and after 14 days and nights, he reached Simhala.
(B) Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - Hiuen Tsang (Xuanzang), the famous Chinese pilgrim, while visiting this kingdom in the early seventh century, recorded it to be an extensively forested and wet country on the sea coast, comprising of roughly the modern districts of Comilla, Noakhali and parts of Chittagong and Bakerganj. In the Record of the Western Regions of the Great Tang, he wrote: “Danmolidi is one thousand four hundred or five hundred li in circumference, and its capital is more than 10 li in circumference. The country is near the sea, with the dampness of low-lying land. During the season of sowing and reaping, flowers and fruits are abundant. The weather here is warm and hot. People here are strong and brave, believing in good and evil. There are more than 10 Buddhist temples, with thousands of monks and there are more than 50 temples. There are different beliefs. The country is near the sea and is at the intersection of land and water, with many treasures so people in this country are generally rich.”
(C) I-Tsing /Yijing (671–695 AD): -Monk Yijing from the Tang period boarded a Persian merchant ship from Guangzhou to India on his pilgrimage in November of 671. He stayed for half a year in Srivijaya (Sumatra in present-day Indonesia), then went to Tamralipta in 673 and met with another monk Dachengdeng who had lived there for many years. He stayed there for one year and learned Sanskrit. They went to central India together. Before leaving India, he again resided in Tamralipta to translate Buddhist scriptures into Chinese and then returned to China by ship directly from there in 695.
(07) KAMRUPA: -Kamarupa was an ancient place in the eastern part of India, located in the western part of present-day’s Assam, encompassing the Brahmaputra Valley and surrounding areas.
(A) Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (634-645 AD): -There is a detailed description of it in Xuanzang’s account. In it, he said, “Kàmarupa covered an area of thousands of li and the capital covered more than 30 li. The fields there were full of water and people sowed and reaped at the right time. There were many valuable trees, rivers, and lakes that crisscrossed the city. The air was gentle and pleasant and the people’s customs were simple. People were short and black and they believed in some gods rather than Buddhism.”
(B)Wang Xuance (648-649): - There were also references to Kamarupa in Juan 198 of the Jiu Tang Shu (The Old Tang History). It said: “There are tens of countries in ancient India, and their customs and local products are similar. There is a country called Jiamolu. There, the custom was to open the east door to face the sun. When Wang Xuance arrived there, the ruler dispatched envoys to offer as tribute rare treasures and exotic things and maps, because he had received (from China) a statue of Lao-tzu and the (scripture) Dao De Jing.”
(08) KANCHIPURAM: - Kanchipuram, Huangshi in Chinese records, was one of the seven holy cities of ancient India, and is situated in present-day Tamil Nadu. Kanchipuram used to be the capital of the Chola and Pallava kingdoms.
(B) Xunzang/ Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - Kanchipuram was visited by Hiuen Tsang in the 7th century when it was being ruled and was the capital of Narasimha Varman I. Kanchipuram has been a ‘destination’ of sorts to the odd Traveller for many centuries now and was first mentioned in the 7th century by the early Chinese explorer Hiuen Tsang, who made no mention of the grand temples there, even though it was known as the ‘city of a thousand temples. He reserved his few remarks to extolling the benign rule of the Pallava king in addition to the piety and bravery of the local populace. He also saw many temples which he calls 'majestic'. In his account, he wrote: “Kanchipuram is also known as Anagarika Dharmapala.… not very far in the south of the city is a large temple. People there are bright and farsighted and are outstanding.”
(09) GAYA: - Among the ancient living cities of India, Gaya has been famous for both its Hindu and Buddhist connections. Situated at the bank of River Falgu (referred to in Ramayana as Niranjana), it actually encompasses the historical village of Bodhgaya (about 11 km), the place where Buddha achieved enlightenment.
(A) Fa Hien/Faxian (399-412 AD): - From this place, after traveling to the west for four yojanas, (the pilgrims) came to the city of Gaya; but inside the city, all was empty- ness and desolation. Going on again to the south for twenty le, they arrived at the place where the Bodhisattva for six years practiced with himself painful austerities. All around was a forest.
(B) Xuanzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - Xuanzang in his travelogue too refers to this story of the city to the holy residence of a most respected sage called Gaya. Historically, Gaya has been known as a prominent city under the Magadh empire. During his visit to Xuanzang, he found it inhabited by about 1,000 respected Brahmin families belonging to earlier sages. They had their own exalted social status independent of the King’s political authority.
(10) SHRAVASTI: - Once among the six largest and flourishing cities of ancient India, Shravasti was the capital of the Kosala kingdom during the 6th century BCE. By this century, it had almost vanished. Its geographical location is in northeast Uttar Pradesh in Sachet (modern Gonda district) and Mahet (modern Baharaich district), along the bank of River Rapti, which led to the creation of a modern Shravasti district with the Binga town as its headquarters by carving out Bharaich and Gonda districts. It is about 150 km away from Lucknow, the capital of Uttar Pradesh. Both Faxian (5th century CE) and Xuanzang (7th century CE) had traveled to Shravasti.
(A) Fa Hien/Faxian (399–415 AD): - Going on from Kunnauj to the south, for eight yojanas, (the travelers) came to the city of Sravasti - in the kingdom of Kosala, in which the inhabitants were few and far between, amounting in all (only) to a few more than two hundred families; the city where king Prasenajit ruled, and the place of the old vihara of Maha-Prajapati; of the well and walls of (the house of) the (Vaisya) head Sudatta; and where the Angulimalya became an Arhat, and his body was (afterward) burned on his attaining to Pari nirvana. At all these places topes were subsequently erected, which are still existing in the city. The Brahmans, with their contrary doctrine, became full of hatred and envy in their hearts and wished to destroy them, but there came from the heavens such a storm of crashing thunder and flashing lightning that they were not able in the end to effect their purpose.
(B) Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): -Both found it to be a city in fast decline. They witnessed and identified most of the places referred to in the Pali texts. Xuanzang found two Ashokan stupas and pillars at the eastern gate of the city.
(11) RAJGRIHA: - Now a small decrepit town known as Rajgir, the ancient city of Rajgriha, was the famous capital of the mighty Magadh kingdom of ancient India until the rise of Patliputra in the 5th century BCE. Located close to Nalanda (Bihar), it is about 100 km from Patna (Patliputra) and 75 km from Gaya. Chinese travelers-monks Fa Xian, Xuanzang, and Yijing which note the existence of an old and a new city.
(A) Fa Hien/Faxian (399–415 AD): - (The travelers) went on from this to the south-east for nine yojanas, and came to a small solitary rocky hill, at the head or end of which was an apartment of stone, facing the south, — the place where Buddha sat, when Sakra, Ruler of Devas, brought the deva-musician, Pancha- to give pleasure to him by playing on his lute. Yojana south-west from this place brought them to the village of Nala and Another yojana to the west brought them to new Rajgriha-the new city built by Ajatasatru. These are dated to the period of Bimbisara and Ajatshatru in the 6th- 5th centuries BCE. When the Chinese Buddhist monk Faxian visited Rajgriha in the early 5th century CE, he found the city largely shorn of its earlier splendor. He, however, noticed many monasteries and stupas. This included one constructed by Ajatshatru over his share of Buddha’s relics which were divided into eight portions and distributed among claimant neighboring kingdoms. There were two monasteries in it.
(B) Xunzang/ Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - Xuanzang went to Rajagrha to visit holy relics when lessons were not given. Rajagrha was the capital of Magadha when Sakyamuni was born. There was a bamboo forest near Rajagrha where Sakyamuni lived and it was known as Venuvana. There were rolling hills, and famous Saptaparnaguha were located there and it was the place that the eldest disciple Mahakasyapa led monks to collect sutras. Famous Grdhrakuta was near to it and Sakyamuni resided there and propagated doctrines for over a decade. During his visit to the city in the middle of the 7th century CE, Xuanzang too notes the decline of the city but located various sites connected with historical Buddha. The city, according to literary evidence, survived until the 12th century CE.
(C) I-Tsing /Yijing (671–695 AD): - Yijing note the existence of an old and a new city and describe that the city lies within a valley and is surrounded by low-lying hills. It is demarcated by an earthen embankment (the Inner Fortification) which is associated with the Outer Fortification, a complex of cyclopean walls that runs (with large breaks) along. New Rajgir is defined by the larger stone embankment constructed outside the northern entrance of the valley to the plain.
(12) GRIDDHKUTA HILL: - Griddhkuta Hill Famous as a favorite rainy-season retreat of Gautam Buddha, Griddhkuta Hill (Vulture’s Peak) is one of the five large hills that surround the ancient capital of Magadh, Rajagriha, or Giribraja (see the entry). GriddhkutaIt was so named because it resembled the beak of a vulture. The hill existed as a famous Buddhist pilgrim place when Faxian (5th century) and Xuanzang (7th century) visited the place.
(A) Fa Hien/Faxian (399–415 AD): - Entering the valley, and keeping along the mountains on the southeast, after ascending fifteen le, (the Travellers) came to mount Girdhar- Kuta. Three le before you reach the top, there is a cavern in the rocks, facing the south, in which Buddha sat in meditation. Faxian writes about spending a night on the top of the hill. He describes going up to this beautifully green and the highest of the five surrounding hills with incense sticks, flowers, oil, and lamp along with two longtime resident monks for making his offerings. Looking at Buddha’s footprints and abode, he was overfilled with emotion Thirty paces to the north-west there is another, where Ananda was sitting in meditation, when the deva Mara Pisuna, having assumed the form of a large vulture, took his place in front of the cavern, and frightened the disciple.
(B) Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - In his description of the visit to Griddhakuta, he notes the existence of stairways that King Bimbisar had built to facilitate people to go up to the top of the hill to listen to Buddha. There were two small stupas on the way. The one designated the spot after which the movement of carriages of kings and members of a royal family was prohibited. The other indicated the place up to which common people could go. On the western slope of the hill, there was a large and tall prayer hall where Buddha used to preach. Xuanzang found there a large standing statue of Buddha in sermon delivery pose. He details all other places that were linked with different events in Buddha’s life like the place when the stone thrown by Devdutt fell, the stone house/cave where he meditated, the spot of his meditative perambulation/ stroll, the hole in stone created by his extending hand from another cave to protect Anand from Mara, the stone slab with clear white and shining lines appearing on account of Buddha drying his robe there, his footprints on the stone, etc.
(13) KUSHINAGAR: - Among the four holiest pilgrimage sites highlighting landmark events of Buddha’s life, Kushinagar is linked with his last sermon and Mahaparinirvana (complete extinction/ passing away). Located in the eastern part of India’s Uttar Pradesh province and bordering Nepal, it is about 52 km from Gorakhpur. Both Faxian and Xuanzang refer to their visit to Kushinagar and describe various legends associated with Mahaparinirvana of the Buddha.
(A) Fa Hien/Faxian (399–415 AD): - Faxian found in existence various stupas and viharas though he writes that, “In the city, the inhabitants are few and far between comprising only the families belonging to the (different) societies of monks.”
(B) Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - By the time of Xuanzang’s visit, Kushinagar had, however, become lonely and desolate place with many of its grand structures in ruins.
(14) VARANASI: - Varanasi, also known as Benares, Banaras, or Kashi, is a city on the banks of the river Ganges in Uttar Pradesh, India, 320 kilometers (200 mi) south-east of the state capital, Lucknow, and 121 kilometers (75 mi) east of Allahabad.
(A) Fa Hien/Faxian (399–415 AD): - Fa-Hien returned towards Pataliputra, keeping along the course of the Ganges and descending in the direction of the west. After going ten yojanas he found a vihara, named 'The Wilderness,' — a place where Buddha had dwelt, and where there are monks now. Pursuing the same course, and going still to the west, he arrived, after twelve yojanas, at the city of Varanasi' in the kingdom of Kasi. The city is surrounded by rivers.
(15) JALANDHARA: - Jalandhar is a city in the Indian state of Punjab.
(A) Xunzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - The city of Jalandhara visited by Hien Tsang was the modern Jalandhara. The king of the Jalandhara kingdom was a Buddhist and an ally of Harsha, the last Buddhist Emperor of India (606 -647 AD). According to Hiuen Tsang, his name was Wuddhi or Unito. While at Jalandhar in March-July 635 AD Hiuen Tsang was treated as a State Guest by the king of Jalandhara, Hiuen Tsang saw about 50 viharas with about 200 monks. One of the well-known viharas was known as Nagardhana in which resided Venerable Chandravarma, a famous Buddhist scholar of those times. Hiuen Tsang stayed in this vihara for four months and studied with Chandravarma a commentary known as Prakarana-Pada-Vibhasa-Sastra. Hien Tsang again visited Jalandhar in 643AD when he was on his way back to China.
(16) PRAYAG: - Prayagraj, also called Prayag, formerly Allahabad or Ilāhābād, city, southern Uttar Pradesh state, northern India. It is situated at the confluence of the Ganga (Ganga) and Yamuna (Jumna) rivers, about 65 miles (100 km) west-northwest of Varanasi (Benares).
(A) Xuanzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): -According to Hiuen Tsang, at the time of his visit, Prayag had become a very important city. Harsha, accompanied by Hiuen Tsang, proceeded to Prayag (Allahabad) at the confluence of the Ganga and Yamuna where he used to celebrate another solemn religious festival at the end of every five years. Hiuen Tsang gives us a description of the great Kumbh Mela at Prayag. When you see this mela again, think of Hiuen Tsang’s visit to it 1300 years ago, and remember that even then it was an old mela coming right down from the Vedic times. Hiuen Tsang tells us how Harsha, though a Buddhist, went to this typical Hindu festival.
(17) ORISSA: -
(A) Xuanzang/Hiuen Tsang (630–645 AD): - Xuanzang (Hiuen Tsang) the Chinese pilgrim, who visited Orissa during 639 A.D. left a vivid graphic account about the flourishing state of Buddhism. The discovery of a huge number of sculptures, images, antiquity, fragments, stone tablets, potteries, coins, stone and terracotta tablets, and many huge stupas cemented the fact that these three places described by Xuanzang are the ruins of a university complex called Pushpa Giri University which shared equal status with Nalanda and Vikramshila universities. Three sites - Lalit Giri (the red hill), Ratnagiri (hill of precious gems), Udayagiri (the hill of the rising sun) are known as the diamond triangle of Odisha representing a rich heritage of architecture and sculpture of the post-Mauryan era Indian art which touched a new zenith of excellence. The Diamond Triangle of Odisha shows that Buddhism was followed quite widely in Odisha and the place was also a center of learning and excellence.
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